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L’ARRIERE PAYS - St Paul de Vence
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L’ARRIERE PAYS - Grasse
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| The moment that you leave the sea and go in the direction of l’Arriere Pays you are immediately surrounded by a completely different landscape. Small roads overhang the sea and snake their way through hills and small mountains, traversing a rich Mediterranean vegetation. This is the domain of umbrella pines, olive trees, and aromatic plants that grow in abundance. It is also the region of stone villages sitting on rocky spurs, sometimes on the edge of a sheer peak, called ‘perched villages’. |
L’ARRIERE PAYS VENCOIS,rich in perched villages.
Many were abandoned in the 19th century but during the past couple of decades these old villages have, for the most part, been restored with taste, and the numerous artists and artisans living there have given these villages a new lease of life.
SAINT PAUL DE VENCE.
Sitting on a rocky spur surrounded by ramparts, its silhouette can be seen from afar. The serene beauty of the place and exceptional light has attracted and inspired many |
artists who have contributed to the reputation of this ravishing village. Along the small picturesque streets you will discover magnificent stone facades dating between 11th and 18th centuries, pretty small squares, old fountains and fabulous gardens. As the ramparts have scarcely changed since their construction in 1537 by order of Francois 1st, there are superb view points over the hills and the Cote d’Azur.
To See:
The major street running through the village is dotted with boutiques and galleries from one end to the other, where the best rubs shoulders with the worst. The 12th century Church and the side aisle contain a treasure! Visit the richly decorated chapel, and the donjon which houses the town hall. The Maeght Foundation exhibits a major collection of 20th century paintings, sculptures, sketches and graphic works and in the garden you will see Calder’s mobiles, a bronze signed Zadkine and Miro sculptures. The building designed by the architect, Jose Luis Sert – a collaborator of Le Corbusier – is in perfect harmony with the landscape. Visit the History Museum which retraces the history of the commune and Provence
TOURETTE SUR LOUP - Town of Violets
Sitting on a stony spur, this village was an important fabric center in the Middle Ages. Following WW2, it refound this activity due to the installation of numerous weavers. Scattered here and there along the tortuous streets are boutiques that sell reproductions of old Provencal designs and beautiful fabrics often destined for the Haute Couture. But more than anything else, Tourette sur Loup is a town of violets. These pretty small flowers have been cultivated for more than a century and is one of the town’s principle activities. Visit the church which houses a 10th century triptych, and the Saint Jean Chapel decorated with naive frescos by Raphael Soupault.
GOURDON
This old feudal village with numerous traces marking this period is perched at an altitude of more than 500 meters. The Cours du Loup offers an extraordinary panoramic view. By mere chance you may find artisans in a square or around the small sloping streets. Visit the fortified château designed in the 12th century by the Comtes de Provence. It stands on the bedrock of a former Saracen fortress. The Historic Museum situated on the ground floor of the château displays Medieval works of art and ancient arms. The Terrace d’Honneur designed by Andre le Notre, gardener to Louis 14th at Versailles, is an amazing screen of 100 year old lime trees. >From here you will have a grandiose panoramic view. The Musee des Arts and Modernite, houses an interesting collection of Art Deco furniture signed by the important designers of the 20’s and 30’s.
L’ARRIERE PAYS GRASSOIS
GRASSE - Capital of Perfume
Sheltered by the Prealpes foothills, the colourful houses of old Grasse are built on terraces which give an unobstructed view over the sea. Here and there, the narrow, shaded streets hide architectural and historic treasures. Due to the abundance of wild or cultivated aromatic plants and flowers surrounding Grasse, the production of perfume has made the town internationally famous.
To See:
The Notre Dame du Puy Cathedral where you can admire three canvasses by Rubens and a religious painting by the Grassois artist, Fragonard.
The Museum of Art and History of Provence, located in a beautiful 18th century house, contains a wonderful collection of regional ceramics.
The Fragonard Villa Museum exhibits an overall collection of works between 1750 and 1850 covering three generations of Fragonard.
The Provencal Museum of Costume and Jewellery is a private collection presenting feminine costumes from the 18th century.
The Amiral de Grasse Museum relates the seafaring history of the region with mock-ups and documents.
PERFUMES
You cannot leave Grasse without seeing the production and the museums allied to the perfume industry as well as the perfumeries.
The historic Fragonard factory was founded in 1926 and from there you can tour the distilleries and laboratories and wander around the garden planted with perfumed plants.
The Galimard factory, created in 1747, also proposes a visit to its laboratory and atelier. The Galimard perfumery was founded 100 years later and is a ‘must see’.
The Musee International de la Parfumerie houses a superb collection of flacons as well as a greenhouse of plants used in perfumes.
SUROUNDINGS
SAINT CEZAIRE is a medieval village clinging to a vertical cliff overlooking the Gorges de Siagne. Do not miss the Grottes de Saint Cezaire, discovered in 1890, which descend 40 meters underground. Nor the Gorges de Siagne, where a small road descends to the bottom from where you will have a sweeping view over canyon.
CHATEAUNEUF DE GRASSE perched on the flank of a hill, is typical of the region. A walk along the narrow streets, will take you back in time - 16th and 17th century houses, porches, washhouses… The 15th century parish church has an altarpiece dating from the 18th century.
L’ARRIERE PAYS NICOIS.
The moment you leave Nice, the green hills abruptly nudge the Prealpes. It is here, at an altitude of more than 1000 meters, in the heart of a protected natural environment, that you will find the most beautiful and spectacular perched villages.
PEILLON.
This superb medieval village, jutting out from a narrow rock, is undoubtedly the most spectacular perched village in the Cote d’Azur. Very few streets but steps everywhere that twist and turn between the stone houses. On the summit of the village you will arrive at a charming small square and an 18th century church which replaced the château. Surmounted by an octagonal lantern, inside you will find 17th and 18th century paintings. In the Chapel des Penitents Blancs are Jean Canavesio’s beautiful, perfectly preserved, frescos dating from the 15th century.
PEILLE.
Perched on the summit of a desolate and wild site overlooking the deep ravine of Faquin, this medieval village is dominated by the ruins of the Comtes de Provence château. At night the clever lighting creates an almost eerie atmosphere. The villagers speak their own dialect – pelhase - which is close to nissart but pronounced differently. Don’t miss the old village with its gothic houses, small streets that twist and turn and vaulted passages. The 12th/13th century church has two adjoining chapels which feature a mural from the 14th century showing Peille as it was during the Middle Ages.
COARAZE, a medieval perched village in the middle of olive groves and cypress that brings to mind Tuscany. Tastefully restored, many artists such as Jean Cocteau, Ponce de Leon, and Mona Christa, came here during the 50’s and 60’s and left behind many designs of sundials on the town hall and the wall of the church square.. Visit the Notre Dame de Pitie chapel, also called the Blue chapel, as the Life of Christ was painted in blue by Ponce de Leon at the beginning of the 60’s.
LUCERAM is a perched fortified village with houses on top of each other as if impaled. The village is situated in the magnificent site of Comte de Nice and possesses a religious heritage. The old village is interesting with restored high gothic houses, authentic bread ovens, arcades…. Visit the Saint Marguerite church, dating from the 18th century. The architecture is Classical with a touch of Rococo. Behind the rose and white facade there are two important altarpieces from the Nicoise School dating from the 15th and 16th century: the Saint-Marguerite altarpiece signed Louis Brea and Saint Antoine by Canavesio. The 15 meter tower on the summit guards the only access to the small market town. |
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